Three Wise Men – Iglesias Part 2

Destinations, Food, Italy, Travel

My morning started at the excellent Modigliani Art Caffè on Piazza Municipio. Breakfast was provided here every day I was staying at the accommodation and consisted of a black coffee (or whatever form your preferred shot of caffeine takes), accompanied by a delicious, sweet pastry. The cafe looks across the square to the Cattedrale di Santa Chiara d’Assisi (Cathedral of Saint Claire of Assisi), and I admired and observed this beautiful and historic place of worship, looking resplendent in red and creamy coloured stone. There was something very enjoyable about sitting outside in the Sardinian sun, and sipping a gently steaming, aromatic coffee as the temperature started climbing towards the expected mid 30’s that were forecast for that day.

Luciano, my accommodation host, owns a number of properties in the town, including a clothing store on the Piazza Lamarmora, which his wife Becky manages. Meeting me for coffee outside the Cathedral, he showed me around Iglesias including a much-needed stop at the local tourist office. I was extremely glad to report that, both the lady behind the counter and a helpful chap called Marco both spoke English very well. Before you lambast me for not making more effort to learn the beautiful Italian language, or for that matter, Sardinian (also known as Sardo) I did make a feeble attempt using a very well-known language app on my phone, but it was clearly too little, too late. Sigh, story of my life. I continue to be grateful for technology and well-educated Europeans.

However, in no time at all, my travel plans and aspirations were starting to take shape as I joined a walking tour later that week, with Marco and a guy called Samuele who was from the Italian mainland. We strolled around Iglesias in a very relaxed fashion. This charming town is a very pleasant collection of pretty piazzas, narrow streets and lanes, a number of churches (Iglesias actually means ‘Churches’) and plenty of places to eat and drink. The most notable feature are the multi coloured umbrellas, hung over every main street around the centre of Iglesias, with assorted colours representing different districts of the town. It really is quite an enchanting sight.

The tour culminated with a brief ascent of the Torre Guelfa di Iglesias (Guelfa Tower), which commands impressive views over the town. A panorama of red roofed dwellings stretched out before us, including some social housing as well, and the now disused mining complex on the hills was clearly visible in the distance. Interestingly, Marco explained that the foundry was actually inside the hills, and they would vent the mine with various shafts and silos to allow the steam and the smoke to escape. However, there is no mining industry associated with Iglesias any longer.

Samuele and Marco would intermittently converse in English to include me, before lapsing back into the sweet chatter of Italian. Samuele was from Riva del Garda, in the Northern Alps but was now living and working in Turin in Piemonte. He told me that he had met an amazing girl in Turin who was from Iglesias, and he wanted to see what the town was like for himself. Well, I wasn’t surprised as Iglesias appeared to be replete with raven-haired, olive-skinned beauties. I considered the things we do for love, but Samuele’s story of his own Sardinian odyssey sounded like as good a reason as any to embark upon such a journey, and as a solo traveller, I was glad to make new friend.

As the blistering sun rose high in the sky, lunchtime inevitably beckoned, and we soon met with Luciano for yet more coffee, comparing notes and engaging in friendly chatter. After we had swapped WhatsApp numbers, Samuele later gave me a lift to Fontanamare Beach in a car he had borrowed from his brother or his friend, I can’t remember which. I was certainly glad to have gotten to know these three wise men though, all of whom had been so friendly and helpful and had much enhanced my trip  to this fascinating island in the Tyrrhenian Sea. But, I have much more to write about, so until then… ciao.

Samuele, Luciano and Marco

Kenya, East Africa 2022

Blog, Destinations, Kenya, Travel

I have wanted to come to Africa for many years, but my travels have taken me frequently to South Asia. So, when I had clear opportunity to visit Kenya in East Africa, proverbial wild horses could not have stopped me.

Having been a frequent visitor to the Indian subcontinent, there was something familiar with the climate, vegetation, roadside stalls and shops and just the feel of the country. However, culturally, Africa is very different from India. Of course these differences only served to heighten my enjoyment of my new environment, if only for the sake of variety.

Wildebeest Eco Camp, Nairobi

Kenya is without doubt a beautiful country, and one week in, I was really loving it. Staying with a family initially in Oyugis, we had met plenty of locals which is a fantastic way to begin to understand a nation and its culture. And culture of course is everything – the way a nation feels, thinks, reacts, behaves and basically does life is all part and parcel of what we call culture.

For me, travel has always been about the people you meet and not just the places you visit. Having said that, Kenya is massively replete with adventures and amazing places to see. Whether you love the coast, want to visit mountains, go on safari, explore a tea plantation, Kenya will keep producing the goods, again and again.

Tea slopes around Kericho

And without doubt, I will be returning to Kenya. I mean, why wouldn’t you? Admittedly, there were some security concerns with the current elections going on, and a potential terrorism threat mainly in the North East from Al Shabaab (a result of the Kenyan military intervention in Somalia), but the draw of East Africa is simply magnetic. So yes, I will definitely be coming back, and what is more, I would encourage you to do the same. Just be careful and vigilant, but more than anything, enjoy it…

Me and Rachel in Western Kenya

Kenya: Kendu Bay & Homa Bay

Blog, Destinations, Kenya, Travel

So our host decided to drive us around Homa Bay County and show us his home turf. We went straight to Kendu Bay where the bright sunlight was reminiscent of a previous holiday in the Bahamas. Simply outstanding. Fresh fish, diverse birdlife and a gorgeous Kenyan blue sky, which was guaranteed to sweep away the winter and possibly, COVID blues. We sat in a cafe by the lake shore and drank bitter lemon, mango juice and and beer.

Fresh fish just caught at Kendu Bay

Actually, the birdlife really is amazing. In a few short minutes, I had spotted Little Egret, Cattle Egret, Great White Egret, Pied Kingfisher, Hamerkop, Cormorants and others. If that lot doesn’t get your ornithological juices running, nothing will.

Some of the local birdlife nearby

In terms of birding, the whole of the Kenya trip was pretty much like that; one awe inspiring sight after another. Leaving Kendu Bay, we travelled a short distance to Simbi Lake where I witnessed a great wash of pink gathered at one end of the shoreline, iridescent in the bright African sunshine. It was my very first flock of Lesser Flamingos, and what a beautiful sight it was too.

Lesser Flamingos at Simbi Lake

Moving on, we eventually arrived at Homa Bay situated at the bottom end of the Winam Gulf, that feeds into Lake Victoria. This time, the birdwatching went up several more notches as the avian world blended seamlessly with the human one.

Marabou Storks at Homa Bay

Two words: Marabou Storks. These large, and to be completely honest, somewhat ugly birds were everywhere. On the roofs of houses, on the shoreline, in the sky above us. In fact, they are so big, it felt like a scene out of Jurassic World when the beleaguered tourists were being dive-bombed by pterodactyls.

I don’t think Homa Bay is really a tourist town, from what I could see anyway. Down near the shoreline, it was just full of fishermen, birds (waiting for titbits from the fishermen no doubt), locals selling fish cooked and uncooked, and families enjoying the breezy sunshine down near the water. The whole place had a busy, but relaxed and laid back feel.

A basket of tiny fish!

It may well be off the beaten track and not an obvious tourist destination, but I really recommend a visit to this remote part of Western Kenya – you won’t be disappointed!