İstanbul, Eminönü, Haliç and a trip up the Bosphorus.

Destinations, Travel, Turkey

Is it Europe or is it Asia? Geographically both, but İstanbul feels like Asia with some European influence and is a flavoursome melting pot of each continent. Admittedly, I did spend most of my time on the European side, but yet there is still a heavy Asian influence, with a proliferation of mosques and Islamic script in every district of Istanbul, and the wailing sound of the Muezzins across the city issuing their call to prayer. And even though İstanbul is a mere 1,555 miles from London, it feels like a long way from home.

The Magnificent Hagia Sophia

There is so much to see in this colossal city (population of approximately 15.8 million), you could stay for weeks, maybe months, and still not exhaust the list of things to do or see. Beyond the major sights like the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the Galata Tower, there is a whole slice of İstanbul life just waiting to be explored. Thankfully, İstanbul is well served with public transport, so getting from A to B isn’t too much of a problem. In fact, it isn’t a problem at all.

So, here I was in İstanbul, and a whole raft of adventures lay before me. Calling briefly at the tourist information office, very conveniently located just off Sultanahmet Park and not far from the Hagia Sophia, I got some information about entrance fees for museums and duly helped myself to bundles of leaflets about various tours and things to do. Armed with my Lonely Planet, I quickly exited the building to explore this great city. I soon found that İstanbul can be quite overwhelming, as there is so much to see and take in. It is a city full of myriad sights, experiences, sounds and smells.

The next challenge was buying the all-important red İstanbulkaart which was another hurdle, I and many other tourists had to overcome. Eventually, I purchased one from this chap who was hanging around the charging station conveniently located by the tram stop, probably for a slightly more inflated price than what I would have paid at the Metro station. Nonetheless, it opened wide the gateway to public transport. Another reason I wanted to purchase an İstanbulkaart so quickly was I wanted to use the public toilets nearby, and one method of entry was yes, you guessed it, this humble but now vital little red card (same colour as the Turkish flag).

Later, I headed down to the waterfront at Eminönü where many of the ferries dock, and being frenetic, noisy and lively, it became a fascinating insight into İstanbul life around the water. If you want to get around the city, then by boat is best and sooner or later, you will eventually arrive here. Eminonu is the vital crossing-over point to other districts of Istanbul; by ferry or over the Galata Bridge on foot, by bus, car or tram. The Metro uses the Golden Horn, or Halic Bridge, further up the estuary. Whether you are heading to Karaköy, Beşittaş, or Kadıköy, there will be a ferry or some other suitable mode of transport for you.

The busy waterways of İstanbul are alive with water-borne craft and floods of people on them, and once I had worked out that the İstanbulkaart was my ticket to ride, resembling a multi-purpose Oyster card, I used it with great liberality. I now realise why there never seemed to be any ticket office staff at the ferry docks; you just don’t need them. You can use the İstanbulkaart on ferries, trams, buses and the Metro after you have applied some credit to it by presenting the card at one of the innumerable charging stations across the city and stuffing the machine with Turkish Lira (you can use your credit card but cash is simpler). You can then travel in any direction and on just about anything you fancy for a very cheap price.

And that is what I did. By the end of the week, I was getting about like a local, even giving some confused visitors instructions on how they could get to their chosen destination. As would be expected in an area laden with tourists, there were plenty of ticket touts selling overpriced circular boat trips, but thinking this would be a superb way of viewing this vast metropolis as a whole from the water, I purchased my ticket and boarded the boat with a mass of other tourists eager to experience maritime joy with a cruise up the Bosphorus.

The boat left the ferry dock and we surged out over slightly rough water disturbed by a gusting sea breeze, heading in the direction of the Bosphorus Bridge and the Black Sea beyond it. Hugging the European bank of this iconic Strait and cruising past the beautiful and ornate Dolmabahçe Palace in Beşittaş, we turned in the shadow of the Bosphorus Bridge and sailed down the Asian side of İstanbul, before heading back to ferry docks at Eminönü.

There is nothing like being with a boatload of passengers and observing first-hand the many and varied interactions between families, friends, honeymooning couples, tourists and others. İstanbul is magnetic in its draw towards visitors from all over the world and there is much to be gained, experienced, viewed, savoured and enjoyed. This city that forms the bridge between Asia and Europe will leave a lasting impression on you and will provide a lifetime of memories that will neither diminish or fade.