Enoteca Ciccimonelli (the Ciccimonelli Wine Cellar) Iglesias, Sardinia

I had indicated to my amiable host, Luciano, of Bed and Breakfast del Corso, that I was interested in wine tasting. And when I say that, I don’t just mean quaffing lots of wine but rather taking a more intellectual approach to this lovely activity. He directed me to Enoteca Ciccimonelli which is not just a very well stocked wine shop, but a very excellent restaurant too.

During my first visit the night before, I had met the owner and a young woman who I believe was his daughter, who served front of house. They told me that they are open as long as there are people around, but it had been a very quiet evening, so they were just locking up and about to go home. I promised them I would be back and I’m glad I did, as my visit the next day proved to be exceptional.

So, returning as planned, I readied myself for a superlative gastronomic journey. Having chosen a suitable outdoor seat and not wanting to waste a second, I ordered the sumptuous Seafood Platter whilst imbibing a glass of Cannonau, which had been poured into my beckoning glass. Cannonau is full bodied, luscious, bursting with mouth watering flavours and is undoubtedly the signature red on the island. I can now see why it is on sale at so many different restaurants, and it won’t cost you the earth either.

Chatting to the two waitresses at Ciccimonelli, one of them told me that she was earning money and wanted to get off the island to explore, study and work either on mainland Italy, Europe or somewhere around the world, because there is nothing really on Sardinia in terms of meaningful work. I began to understand that Sardinia may not be where the younger generation wants to remain long term, and I suspect that for these locals, the island could be viewed as geographically claustrophobic and limited in terms of opportunity.

Anyway, having quaffed and very much enjoyed my generous glass of Cannonau, this was followed by an aromatic Oristano, which was very golden in appearance like a dessert wine, but dry in taste. I sampled numerous wines during the evening, and each one was unpacked and explained to me very informatively. The two young women served me very ably and professionally and were obviously very well informed having been trained well by the restaurant owner I would imagine. The whole evening felt stylish and professional, and the evening concluded with a dessert wine to compliment the final, inevitable course on the menu.

My evening of quiet contemplation and enjoyment was then interrupted by the unpredictable Mediterranean weather, as lightning suddenly flashed across the night sky accompanied by a deep and ominous rumble of thunder. Two guys who were also eating outside then rushed into the restaurant to avoid the deluge of rain now falling from the sky. Having been to India numerous times, the ferocious downpour was slightly reminiscent of many monsoons I have witnessed over the years.

Almost immediately, the air began cooling, and rivulets of water washed down over the cobbled street from the persistent, heavy rain. I was sat under a huge umbrella and was enjoying being splashed gently by rain. The waitress asked me if I wanted to go inside too but I declined as I was still very much enjoying the alfresco dining experience, savouring delicious food eaten in the rain, albeit under a large canopy.

I eventually retired to the inside of Enoteca Ciccimonelli and ordered another drink. The shop was a veritable Aladdin’s cave, selling lots of lovely produce, including some locally made nougat! Well, I bought a delicious chunk of that, and having paid my bill, I left. When I got back to my apartment, I tore off the wrapper, and I was not disappointed with my local sweet treat.

In summary, Enoteca Ciccimonelli was a fabulous dining experience, and I would 100% recommend it. You will enjoy fabulous, local produce and receive the highest standards of service, and you really can’t ask for more than that, can you?

***All photos, except main header, courtesy of Enoteca Ciccimonelli***

Three Wise Men – Iglesias Part 2

Destinations, Food, Italy, Travel

My morning started at the excellent Modigliani Art Caffè on Piazza Municipio. Breakfast was provided here every day I was staying at the accommodation and consisted of a black coffee (or whatever form your preferred shot of caffeine takes), accompanied by a delicious, sweet pastry. The cafe looks across the square to the Cattedrale di Santa Chiara d’Assisi (Cathedral of Saint Claire of Assisi), and I admired and observed this beautiful and historic place of worship, looking resplendent in red and creamy coloured stone. There was something very enjoyable about sitting outside in the Sardinian sun, and sipping a gently steaming, aromatic coffee as the temperature started climbing towards the expected mid 30’s that were forecast for that day.

Luciano, my accommodation host, owns a number of properties in the town, including a clothing store on the Piazza Lamarmora, which his wife Becky manages. Meeting me for coffee outside the Cathedral, he showed me around Iglesias including a much-needed stop at the local tourist office. I was extremely glad to report that, both the lady behind the counter and a helpful chap called Marco both spoke English very well. Before you lambast me for not making more effort to learn the beautiful Italian language, or for that matter, Sardinian (also known as Sardo) I did make a feeble attempt using a very well-known language app on my phone, but it was clearly too little, too late. Sigh, story of my life. I continue to be grateful for technology and well-educated Europeans.

However, in no time at all, my travel plans and aspirations were starting to take shape as I joined a walking tour later that week, with Marco and a guy called Samuele who was from the Italian mainland. We strolled around Iglesias in a very relaxed fashion. This charming town is a very pleasant collection of pretty piazzas, narrow streets and lanes, a number of churches (Iglesias actually means ‘Churches’) and plenty of places to eat and drink. The most notable feature are the multi coloured umbrellas, hung over every main street around the centre of Iglesias, with assorted colours representing different districts of the town. It really is quite an enchanting sight.

The tour culminated with a brief ascent of the Torre Guelfa di Iglesias (Guelfa Tower), which commands impressive views over the town. A panorama of red roofed dwellings stretched out before us, including some social housing as well, and the now disused mining complex on the hills was clearly visible in the distance. Interestingly, Marco explained that the foundry was actually inside the hills, and they would vent the mine with various shafts and silos to allow the steam and the smoke to escape. However, there is no mining industry associated with Iglesias any longer.

Samuele and Marco would intermittently converse in English to include me, before lapsing back into the sweet chatter of Italian. Samuele was from Riva del Garda, in the Northern Alps but was now living and working in Turin in Piemonte. He told me that he had met an amazing girl in Turin who was from Iglesias, and he wanted to see what the town was like for himself. Well, I wasn’t surprised as Iglesias appeared to be replete with raven-haired, olive-skinned beauties. I considered the things we do for love, but Samuele’s story of his own Sardinian odyssey sounded like as good a reason as any to embark upon such a journey, and as a solo traveller, I was glad to make new friend.

As the blistering sun rose high in the sky, lunchtime inevitably beckoned, and we soon met with Luciano for yet more coffee, comparing notes and engaging in friendly chatter. After we had swapped WhatsApp numbers, Samuele later gave me a lift to Fontanamare Beach in a car he had borrowed from his brother or his friend, I can’t remember which. I was certainly glad to have gotten to know these three wise men though, all of whom had been so friendly and helpful and had much enhanced my trip to this fascinating island in the Tyrrhenian Sea. But, I have much more to write about, so until then… ciao.

Iglesias, Sardinia – Part 1

Destinations, Food, Italy, Travel

In the southwestern corner of the second-largest island in the Mediterranean, lies the town of Iglesias. The Island I am referring to is of course, Sardinia, directly south of Corsica and a few clicks northwest of Sicily. I’m betting you’ve never heard of Iglesias, and to be completely frank, neither had I until last summer. However, I have longed for many years to visit this glistening jewel in the Tyrrhenian Sea, and keen as I was for a break from work, I happened upon some very attractive and reasonable accommodation and booked it.

Emerging from Cagliari Airport, it was a very short walk to the nearby railway station where I waited patiently for my transport to Iglesias and what would be my home for the next 10 days. After a swift, nighttime journey across the island, my host Luciano and his wife Becky, were dutifully waiting for me at the small station where we both discovered that I could not speak Italian and they could not speak English. What to do? Well, it was Google Translate to the rescue, and before we knew it, literally nothing was lost in translation. Such is the modern techy world we now inhabit.

I was given a whistle stop tour of my lovely accommodation with a rapid explanation of the functionality of various devices, most notably, the air conditioning and the coffee maker. Then, late as it was, we made the short walk into the centre of Iglesias and stopped at a busy gastropub called Birroteca Fermentazioni Spontanee (Brewery Spontaneous Fermentations) on Via Cagliari. Luciano, having gone over and above the call of duty, left me in peace to savour the atmosphere and excitement of my new environment.

My menu choice for the evening was an immaculately presented and sumptuously tasting amberjack steak, washed down with a local beer (well it was hot, with day time temperatures regularly reaching mid 30’s), and by then I was very thirsty after all my travelling endeavours for the day that had begun many hours previous in Clifton, Bristol. I had a strong sense that I was going to really enjoy myself here in the hitherto unknown town of Iglesias. Tune in for the next episode, as they say…

Galata.

Destinations, Food, Travel, Turkey

Having now been to İstanbul and returned home, every time I see the city on the TV, there is one landmark that I am always on the lookout for: The Galata Tower. If nothing else, it is a perfect way of referencing İstanbul, and you can quickly and easily work out whereabouts in the city you are by taking sight of this notable structure. The Galata Tower was built in the 14th Century and replaced a much earlier, wooden version, and is siutuated in the Galata Neighbourhood of Beyoğlu, across the Haliç from Sultanahmet.

So I decided it was time to cross the Golden Horn from Sultanahmet to Karaköy and Beyoğlu. You can do this numerous ways: by metro, tram, bus, ferry or by the method I chose, on foot. Galata Bridge itself is a hubub of activity. Interestingly, it has 2 levels, so as far as the central arch where the boats pass through, you can walk underneath past rows of resturants and cafes. On top, you have innumerable fishermen tryng their luck with the busy, churning waters below.

So having strode across the Galata Bridge, I planted my feet firmly in Karaköy. Not far from that spot, (about 20 minutes walk), is the Pera Palace Hotel where Agatha Christie was a frequent guest and allegedly wrote ‘Murder on the Orient Express’ from her room, 411. I can well imagine that an extended sojourn in Istanbul would bring out the writer in many of us – it’s that kind of place that stimulates the senses and beckons you to imagine and explore.

It was well past lunchtime, so I was hungry, and wandering down a side street, I soon found myself at the Gümrük Resturant. Perched on a seat outside the restaurant, I contentedly watched the world go by. The menu was inviting, and service was really helpful and friendly. It was a refreshing change from the usually overpriced tourist fare on offer in Sultanahmet, and almost immediately, you felt you were getting more ‘bang for your buck.’ The whole offering was much more acceptable and excellent in my opinion. Having been seated at my outdoor table, I ordered a glass of Efes beer which appears to be the local brew and was most acceptable. To accompany this, I ordered Pasta with Turkish Metaballs, and for 190 Turkish Lira (about £4.70), was good value for money.

The inside of the resturant was really interesting and I had a quick look around before I sauntered off down the lane and encountered some old guys passing the time of day who didn’t seem to be that keen on me taking their photo. Notwithstanding that, I carried on and headed for my next port of call: Galata Tower. This great stone edifice sits atop a hill and commands an unparlelled view (more about that later), so it was a reasonable slog to ascend said hill. Nearing the top, I was grateful to meet an elderley gent selling cold, bottled water for the very reasonable price of 5 Turkish Lira (£0.12).

Having been suitably refreshed, I pushed on up the hill towards Galata Tower itself. This obviously very popular tourist attraction was loudly and vividly announced by the sheer magnitude of people queuing to get inside and climb the ancient stone steps. I hurriedly bought my ticket from the booth, joined the long line and waited my turn as we slowly, but surely, edged towards the entrance. I remember watching a film recently long after my return from Istanbul, that featured the Galata tower, and the main character entered through the doorway into a palatial hallway with numerous rooms. It is nothing like that inside; it is as you would expect a stone, cilyndrical tower to be.

There are 3 levels that you can view İstanbul from, and all are equally breathtaking. İstanbul is a vast metropolis. I wouldn’t normally use the word metropolis, but with the size and vastness of this city, it seems to lend itself to that very word. I remember hearing an american guy talking on the phone, who sounded like a reporter, as he vividly and enthusiastically decsribed the panorama that lay before him. His account and depiction of Istanbul was so compelling that I really wanted to hear the entire conversation, but not wanting to appear to be eavesdropping, I slowly moved away. I remember thinking that we Brits lack some of that passion and excitement at times, because we are too busy being English and cool about everything. It’s good to be thrilled about a place, and there was much to stimulate the senses in this city where Europe reaches out and touches Asia.

As you stare out across this expanse of buildings and people, in any direction, you will see something interesting. Gazing out over the rooftop bars, restaurants, and people’s homes with their laundry drying in the sun, you can see so much, whether you are looking up the Haliç towards the Western District, or south towards Eminonou and Sultanahmet, with the impressive Sulamaniaye mosque commanding prime position. Alternatively, you can view the Bosphorus, snaking away into the distance, under the bridge of the same name, as it makes it’s slow and ponderous way north towards the Black Sea and Ukraine.

Gazing in the opposite direction, you will witness a never ending conveyeor belt of ocean going vessels travelling up from the Mediterranean, having navigated the Dardenelles Strait, and now coming clearly into view across the Sea of Marmara with the Prince’s Islands shimmering on the far horizon. For me, the Galata Tower is the ultimate lookout in İstanbul, situated as it is in the heart of the city, but nonetheless offering the most impressive of views. It is 100% worth your time and pennies, and so if you should find yourself here on the edge of Asia, factor it into your itinerary as it will not disappoint at all.

Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge, Kenya

Blog, Destinations, Food, Kenya, Travel

Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge is situated on the eastern shores of fabulous Lake Nakuru. And as such, it is perfectly positioned to provide you with the experience of a lifetime, which is exactly what we enjoyed.

Location, location, location – Sarova has it all. Every morning, we were treated to panoramic views of the Lake, watching pelicans lazily flapping their way across the water and hearing the distinctive calls of the African Fish Eagles amongst the trees below.

We had our own local guy for the Game Drives, and on the 2 separate safaris, we were treated to sightings of Rhino, Hippopotamus, Zebras, Impalas, Lions, Giraffes, an Ostrich, Eland, Waterbuck, Thompson’s Gazelle, Warthog and many others. The birdlife, including the sheer mass of Lesser (and some Greater) Flamingos congregating at the Southern end of the lake, is also rich and varied, so bring a pair of binoculars with you.

In addition to an amazing location, Sarova also has a highly efficient, friendly and helpful complement of staff who are very proactive, and seem to anticipate your every need and want. Always in attendance, but without being overbearing, I feel they have stuck a perfect balance which is most refreshing.

Staying for 5 nights, we soon got to know many of the lovely people that work there. Angela, Alex and Fred in particular, really looked after us, and made us feel very welcome indeed. It seemed like nothing we requested was too much trouble and they most definitely enhanced our stay. Poolside, we met Morgan and Marie who were great fun and again, added value to our experience at Sarova.

Another important part of the Lion Hill experience is the outstanding food on offer. The variety of roasted and pan fried meat and fish available every night was simply mouthwatering. Alongside this, there were local dishes of stewed goat with a good selection of vegetables plus a range of Indian dishes with chapattis. East Africa has a significant Indian influence, hence the infiltration of the menu with Asian flavours.

Jayne (on the right), with some of her reception staff

During our stay, we met Jayne the General Manager, and Damaris who is Head Chef. Both outstanding ladies doing a fantastic job in the aftermath of COVID, and thankfully, visitors are now beginning to return to Kenya. East Africa really needs our tourist dollars, pounds and euros! Before we left, I was able to chat to Moses, the head of security, and I was impressed with the level of care Sarova take in this important area.

If you want an unforgettable experience right in the heart of one of Kenya’s National Parks, then I urge you to come and stay at Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge. There is much more I could write, but I hope this has given you a taste of what’s out there for you to enjoy.

Dublin in a Day?

Blog, Destinations, Food, Ireland, Travel

Can you do a city break in a day? This is a question that has often perplexed me, so without further ado, I booked myself a reasonably early morning flight to Dublin, flying out from Bristol Airport. With a flight time of less than one hour, the capital of the Emerald Isle is very accessible. Living up to its green nickname, when the thick cloud finally parted over Ireland, the countryside below was the greenest of greens you can possibly imagine.

Down on the ground though I began to understand why, like my home county of Devon, it was so green. It was raining, heavily. ‘Good weather for ducks,’ my connecting coach driver was heard to say, and he was right on the money there. Not to be in the slightest bit perturbed though, I hopped on and took the short thirty minute coach journey into the centre of Dublin, arriving at Westmoreland Street.

Of course, arriving in the centre of any new city can be somewhat overwhelming, I mean what to do? Where do you start? I have to humbly confess that I conducted the briefest research into this fair city, but I was determined to make the most of my time here. It was now 10.05am and my return flight wasn’t until 7.40pm that evening, so here goes.

St. Stephen’s Green

Striding confidently in the direction of somewhere, I soon arrived at one of the green lungs of Dublin: St. Stephen’s Green. All the way there, I was constantly tempted to wander down one of the many side streets en route, but I resisted for now and continued onwards. This is a lovely piece of parkland , situated at the end of Dawson Street full of very tame pigeons it would seem. A quick wander through the park, down the autumnal leafy walkways and around the man-made lake, and I was ready for next segment.

Beanhive Cafe

By now it was late morning, and I was feeling a little peckish. I had read about the Beanhive Cafe, so it was a simple trot across the road from St. Stephen’s Green to the top of Dawson Street. Now I have to say that if you don’t like queuing, don’t come here. Why? Well because I counted 8 seats inside, and 8 seats outside on the pavement. And since it was a cool, grey and wet day, unless you are of the more hardy sort, you probably won’t go for the outside pavement option.

The Beanhive, run by a lovely chap called Fan whose family originate from the Far-East, appears to be perpetually busy – and deservedly so. The menu is wide-ranging and jolly mouth-watering. So, what’s a man to do when in Dublin? Well he orders the ‘Full Irish Breakfast’ of course. I put my order in and soon as a seat inside became available, I sat down literally as my tasty breakfast arrived. I was presented with a vast platter of food which I duly tucked into, although I wasn’t sure if there was any difference between the ‘full English’ and the ‘full Irish.’ No matter, it filled the proverbial hole, and after a quick chat with Fan I discovered that his wife was the actual owner of the business. Goodbyes said, I was on my merry way to the next stop.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral

No visit to Dublin would be complete without popping into a place of religious significance, and St. Patrick’s Cathedral is most definitely worthy of your attention, if only for an hour. Inside you will find a rich source of religious history and Irish heritage. There are statues and plaques to various notable dignitaries and historic men who have helped shaped the Dublin of today. It is without doubt a beautiful building within, and will hold you in rapt attention for some time.

The Oak

Just across the way from Dublin Castle and near the City Hall, the Oak is a great place to pop in if you have a major thirst coming on. Situated on the corner of Parliament Street, it’s a great place to watch the world go by. Perched on a plush stool, I was truly mesmerised by the stunning array of different whiskeys and gin on offer behind the bar. The usual major brands were present of course, but it was the sheer proliferation of independent distillers that was really eye-opening.

So whilst at the bar with my pint of Guinness (well what else did you expect?), which by the way is always part filled up then left to stand before finally being topped up to the rim, I engaged the young Irish barman Joshua in conversation. We mused about the truly dazzling array of spirits before us, imbibing (no pun intended), as much information as I possibly could.

Well I thought I would try one of the local whiskeys and unsurprisingly, I opted for the curiously named ‘Writer’s Tears,’ which is probably some kind of reference to writer’s block maybe… It was very nice, but at 7.50 Euros a shot, perhaps it’s a reference to the price. Oh well, time to move on to my next port of call.

Dublin Castle

For a fascinating insight into Ireland’s troubled history, a visit to Dublin Castle is a must. Famous for the handing over of power to Michael Collins and the newly formed Irish government in 1922, a visit here will certainly help put things in context. Because time was now rapidly moving on, I chose the tour of the State Apartments which was without doubt very interesting and certainly a productive and agreeable use of my then limited time.

One of the most interesting rooms is where the Irish president is inaugurated every seven years. You can’t help but be impressed by the grandeur of Dublin Castle, which is still used regularly for state occasions. The sumptuous dining room where international guests are regularly entertained and the portraits of a long line of British Viceroys that ruled this land during our seven hundred year tenure of power, are truly fascinating. On a more mundane note, Dublin Castle also functions as offices for a number of Government departments.

Ha’penny Bridge

No visit to Dublin is complete without crossing the famous River Liffey via the charming and historic Ha’penny Bridge. Fabulously ornate, it will give you a snapshot of old Dublin. Charmingly, you will find masses of padlocks of friends, visitors and lovers attached to the bridge as a remembrance of their special time there.

Temple Bar

And so to the finale of my day, a visit to the Temple Bar. Here you will put up with expensive Guinness, but in return you will be treated to an undeniably Irish experience. Inside, two musicians, Alan and Josh, were busy entertaining the assembled cheering and whooping crowds with some real Irish folk music. It was for me the perfect end to a varied and interesting day. And whilst I by no means covered all bases within this fabulous city, I think I proved actually, that you can do Dublin in a day. So what are you waiting for? Ryanair are still flying last time I looked.

Hickory’s Smokehouse, Chester

Blog, Destinations, Food, UK

Well here’s a thing. How about sitting by the river, drinking in the local vibe and enjoying some scrumptious food to boot? If that appeals, then I advise you to head for Hickory’s Smokehouse sat on the banks of the serene River Dee in historic Chester.

So, new to the city and feeling hungry, I left my hotel and followed the signs down to the river, and duly discovered Hickory’s. And for a Tuesday night, the place was buzzing with young and old alike; which is always a good sign methinks.

The menu is varied, interesting and quite frankly – very appetising. Yeah they have ribs, pulled pork (of course), Texas Style Brisket, steaks, skewers, waffles, burgers and if you’re feeling really hungry – the truly awesome Smokehouse Platter. This dish cleverly enables you to try all their classics in one go. I however, went for the XXXL burger.

Inside the 2 creaking halves of your burger bun (skewered to keep everything together), you will find the following: 2 burgers, pulled pork, streaky bacon, gherkins, cajun onion rings, lettuce, tomato, their rather tasty house sauce and American cheese. This fullsome tribute to some kind of American culinary dream is accompanied by fries served in a mug and their very own coleslaw. This of course can be washed down with a refreshing chilled beer. Perfect.

Not content with dinner, I returned the following morning for breakfast and swerved around the usual temptation to go for the full English (I was still full from the night before), and choose instead the pancakes. Not just any pancakes though, but the Hickory Pancake Stack complete with Blueberry compote and cream.

This comes with a pot of maple sauce, the contents of which I used to saturate and envelop my pancakes with a sweet, sticky sheen. Anyway, the result was absolute deliciousness, and since they are served all day, there is no excuse not to try them. Of course you can always come back later and go for the lunch menu which advertises 2 courses for £10.

So, if haven’t cottoned on yet, I’m recommending you come here when you’re next in Chester, or anywhere nearby for that matter. The location is great and the staff are real friendly too, which all adds up to a winning combination. Great for the food scene and great for Chester.

The Riverbank Bar Bistro, Bideford

Blog, Food

Situated at the ‘East of the Water’ end of the ancient Torridge Bridge in Bideford, you will find The Riverbank Bar Bistro. Chef Proprietor James Priestley is at the helm of this foodie venture, and by the sounds of it, he’s carving out his own niche right here in North Devon. James moved down from Yorkshire and has been living locally for over 2 decades, acquiring The Riverbank 2 years ago. He’s friendly, approachable, but professional and ably assisted by a small but effective team.

The Riverbank, as you would have guessed by the name, sits right on the banks of the River Torridge, and with a sundeck to the rear you can observe the very same river slip silently and peacefully by. On a sunny afternoon, with one’s favourite tipple in hand and in the company of friends or indeed a loved one, I would imagine it would be utterly delightful.

Invited to partake of the inaugural Greek Night for 2018, my appetite was already whetted as I prepared myself for my very own Hellenic odyssey. It’s not every night you can sample some tasty Greek food in North Devon now, is it? I asked James about his inspiration for holding Greek nights at The Riverbank, and he said: “I was lucky and privileged to have worked with some top Greek chefs so that is where my passion comes from.”

With glass of chilled beer in hand, I dived straight in and ordered the Garlic and Lime Chicken Kebab, which is described as a ‘Char grilled chicken kebab with garlic & coriander sauce and salad leaves.’ Well all I can say is that it did exactly what it says on the proverbial tin, so to speak. In fact the aforementioned chicken kebabs were nothing less than deliciously garlicky, limey and full of flavour. Other starters on offer were, Keftedes (Spicy Meat Balls) and a Traditional Greek Salad.

Next on the menu, was the Marinated Chilli Salmon Fillet. In the menu I read this: ‘Marinated for 12 hours in chilli, coriander, garlic, citrus and honey.’ The highly marinated, and perfectly cooked salmon was laid upon a bed of Mediterranean rice and served with warm pitta bread accompanied by juicy wedges of lemon and lime on top. This was most satisfying and like the starter, looked thoroughly tempting on the plate.

Alternatively, I could have chosen a ‘Greek Butterfly Sirloin Steak,’ ‘Beef Stiffado,’ or even ‘Oven Baked Greek Chicken Breast.’ Admittedly, I’m no expert when it comes to Greek cuisine (sadly, it’s been 14 long years since my last Hellenic adventure), but I reckon this is a jolly nice offering for the people of North Devon, and makes a refreshing change. The menu overall was fairly compact, but I think there was enough on offer to tempt most palates.

Not exactly Greek, but I concluded my night with a delicious homemade chocolate brownie (lovingly created by James’ wife, Vicky) with a pot of clotted cream, both situated at the opposite ends of a long, narrow plate with a winding river of chocolate sauce in between. I was by this stage imbibing a sumptuous glass of Argentinian Malbec, which is described in the notes as: ‘Fair Trade and Organic, lovely rich chocolatey Malbec with structure and spiciness from the Bonarda.’ I think that sounds like a pretty good match to me…

I would judge the evening to be a great success, and would certainly consider returning in the not too distant future. I definitely recommend that you check this place out as I don’t think you’ll be disappointed! Greek nights in 2018, are every Thursday, April to September.

Psalter’s Restaurant @ The Luttrell Arms

Blog, Food, UK

The Luttrell Arms Hotel is situated in Dunster, a rather splendid medieval village in beautiful West Somerset. Enclosed within the ancient walls of this 15^th century hostelry, is the Psalter’s Restaurant. I was invited to stay at the Luttrell by Head Chef Barrie Tucker, with a view to trying out the culinary offering. Barrie, locally born, is very much at the helm of the brigade of chefs there, and is the driving force behind the food on offer.

I arrived on Sunday afternoon, after a not so long drive from North Devon, and was immediately impressed by the professional, courteous manner of the staff. I was at once ushered to my room, interestingly called Rodney (he wasn’t in there thankfully), and I soon found myself relaxing within my sumptuous and spacious surroundings.

My accommodation was supremely comfortable, with a vast queen size bed, sofa, reading chair, writing desk (how thoughtful), TV, and of course a lovely, modern en suite bathroom. I would say that Rodney was a mixture of modern decoration and antique style; and jolly nice it was too. I felt like an absolute king peering out of my second storey window over the historic Yarn Market below.

Having earlier spent some time unwinding in the bar – not far from the fire, I navigated my way eventually to the Psalter’s Restaurant, whereupon I was ushered to my cosy corner table. The menu was most definitely stimulating, offering a really good choice of varied and appetizing dishes.

Not wishing for the grass to grow under one’s proverbial feet so to speak, I quickly selected the wine for the night, which of course is the altogether superb Malbec – having an ‘explosive red berry nose with chocolate and soft vanilla notes.’ Sounds like a meal all by itself…

Now for the food. I opted for the Pheasant and Cranberry Terrine, followed by Roast Rump of Beef with Pepper sauce. The terrine was beautifully presented and prepared, resembling a work of art. It really looked fabulous on the plate, and tasted equally delicious too. I considered this a perfect way to begin the evening, and I couldn’t wait for the next course.

The Roast Rump of Beef with Pepper sauce arrived shortly after. The beef was rare, and I’m not sure that there was a choice with this, but either way, the two slices of beef draped across my very stylish graphite colour plate were melt in the mouth delicious. The attendant pepper sauce, with a hint of sweetness, was quite unlike anything I had ever tried before and extremely moreish.

Keeping the beef company on the plate were spinach, wild mushrooms and fondant potatoes. A very tasty, balanced and mouth-watering offering. All the while, this was being washed down with my ‘Hefty, deep fruited’ Malbec, making this a somewhat enjoyable experience.

My dessert choice for the night was Treacle Tart with Lemon Curd and Lemon Curd Ice Cream. This was not as overpowering as it sounds, but was in fact a delicately balanced finish to a wonderful evening. When you’re cooking at this level, it’s not always about strong flavours but something a bit more subtle.

The next morning, on the way to breakfast, I checked out the terrace overlooking the compact courtyard, which in turn leads out to the lovely Secret Garden overlooking the grounds of Dunster Castle. In warmer weather, this would be a marvelous place to eat and drink. I eventually exited the Luttrell arms after an immensely satisfying Full English Breakfast, containing hog’s pudding and potato cake. I think anyone who stays at the Luttrell will honestly have little to complain about, and will find it a very refreshing break.

The #EatExmoor Food & Drink Trade Show

Blog, Food

Wednesday 7th February sees the inaugural Eat Exmoor Food & Drink trade show, at the Beach Hotel in Minehead. The #EatExmoor initiative is a joint project from the Exmoor National Park and Visit Exmoor; the tourism authority for this special area. Local producers, chefs and hospitality providers are invited along for a day of networking, cooking demonstrations, informative, interesting and helpful talks about how to maximise your business, in and around the national park.

The day will also be celebrating the launch of the #EatExmoor Guide and the #EatExmoor Marketing Toolkit. So, if you are connected to the hospitality industry in the Exmoor area, you know where to come: The Beach Hotel, Minehead 10-4pm. Click on the link below for the day’s programme of events.

The #EatExmoor Food & Drink Trade Show Programme of Events